Your Maytag washer is trying to tell you exactly what went wrong—if you know how to read it. This maytag washer diagnostic codes list breaks down the most common error codes, what they usually mean, and what you can do before calling for service.
If your machine is stopping mid-cycle, refusing to spin, or showing a flashing code, use this guide to translate the message and narrow the cause quickly.
Why Maytag Diagnostic Codes Appear
Most Maytag washers show diagnostic codes when a sensor detects something outside normal operation, such as:
- Water not filling or draining within a set time
- Lid/door not locking properly
- Motor not reaching the expected speed
- Excess suds causing unstable spinning
- Communication issues between the control board and components
Using a maytag washer diagnostic codes list helps you avoid random part replacements and focus on the likely failure point.
Before You Troubleshoot: Quick Safety Steps
- Unplug the washer (or turn off the breaker).
- Turn off water supply valves if you’ll inspect hoses.
- Wait 1–2 minutes, then reconnect power to reset the control (simple glitches happen).
- If the washer smells like burning, trips the breaker, or leaks heavily—stop and get service.
How to Enter Diagnostic Mode (General Guidance)
Maytag has multiple platforms (top-load, front-load, different control styles), so the exact button sequence varies. However, the general idea is similar:
- The washer must be in standby (plugged in, powered off or idle).
- You perform a button sequence (often pressing the same button multiple times or rotating the cycle knob in a pattern).
- The display (or status lights) will show stored fault codes.
If you have the model number (usually inside the door frame for front-load or under the lid for top-load), you can match it to the correct sequence in the tech sheet. Even without it, this maytag washer diagnostic codes list can still help interpret what you see.
Maytag Washer Diagnostic Codes List (Common Errors)
Note: Code wording can differ slightly by model. Use the code + symptoms together for best accuracy.
| Diagnostic Code | What It Usually Means | Likely Causes | What to Try First (DIY Checks) |
|---|---|---|---|
| F0 E2 | Over-sudsing detected | Too much detergent, wrong detergent (non-HE) | Run a rinse cycle, reduce detergent, use HE detergent |
| F5 E1 | Lid switch fault / lid not detected (top-load) | Lid not closing, lid lock/switch issue | Re-close lid, inspect lid strike, power reset |
| F5 E2 | Lid lock won’t lock | Lid lock mechanism failure, obstruction | Check for debris, ensure lid aligns, power reset |
| F7 E1 | Basket speed sensor fault / motor speed issue | Drive system problem, sensor, wiring | Redistribute load, check for jammed basket, reset |
| F7 E5 | Shifter fault (top-load) | Shift actuator failure | Reset, listen for actuator movement, check harness if accessible |
| F8 E1 | No water / slow fill | Water supply off, clogged screens, inlet valve | Open valves, clean hose screens, check kinked hoses |
| F8 E3 | Overflow condition | Inlet valve stuck open, pressure system issue | Turn off water, unplug, inspect for continuous filling |
| F9 E1 | Long drain / drain problem | Clogged drain pump/filter, kinked drain hose | Check drain hose, clean pump filter (front-load), clear clogs |
| Sd or SUD | Excess suds | Too much detergent | Rinse/spin, reduce soap, use HE |
| LOC / LC | Controls locked | Control lock enabled | Hold “Control Lock” button 3 sec (varies) |
This table is designed to serve as a practical maytag washer diagnostic codes list for everyday troubleshooting—fast, readable, and action-oriented.
What Each Code Suggests (Practical Interpretation)
Water-Related Codes (Fill, Drain, Overflow)
If you see codes like F8 E1 or F9 E1, the washer is basically saying: “I can’t move water the way I’m supposed to.”
Common fixes that solve a big share of these problems:
- Clean inlet hose screens (sediment builds up quietly)
- Confirm the drain hose isn’t shoved too deep into the standpipe
- Check for coins, lint, or small socks blocking the pump area
A good maytag washer diagnostic codes list always highlights water flow first—because it’s one of the most frequent causes of cycle failure.
Lid Lock / Door Lock Codes
Codes in the F5 family often involve lid lock feedback. The washer must confirm the lid/door is secure before spinning at high speed.
What helps:
- Press down on the lid near the lock and restart
- Look for a cracked plastic “strike” (the piece that clicks into the lock)
- If the lock never clicks, the mechanism may be worn out
Motor / Speed / Shift Codes
When you see F7 codes, the machine may be sensing that the motor or basket isn’t behaving correctly.
Try these steps:
- Pause and redistribute heavy items (blankets and hoodies love to create imbalance)
- Run a spin-only cycle with an empty drum to see if it can reach speed
- Listen: repeated clicking can indicate a shift actuator or drive issue
How to Clear a Code (Typical Methods)
Clearing doesn’t fix the root cause, but it’s useful after correcting the problem.
- Soft reset: unplug for 1–2 minutes, then plug back in
- Cancel/Drain: press Cancel/Drain (if available) and restart
- Diagnostic clear: in diagnostic mode, many models allow clearing stored faults
If a code returns immediately, treat it as an active fault and use the maytag washer diagnostic codes list to guide your next check.
When It’s Better to Call Service
Consider professional help if:
- The washer won’t drain and you’ve cleared the hose/pump access
- You see overflow behavior (water continues filling while powered)
- You suspect control board issues (random codes, dead display, burning smell)
- The unit repeatedly fails during high-speed spin with the same motor/shift code
Quick FAQ
Are Maytag diagnostic codes universal across all models?
No. Many are shared across platforms, but some differ between top-load and front-load designs. That’s why pairing the code with symptoms is essential.
Where do I find my Maytag washer model number?
Common locations:
- Front-load: inside the door opening
- Top-load: under the lid, near the rim or on the back panel
Can using too much detergent really cause error codes?
Yes—over-sudsing can trigger Sd/SUD or F0 E2 and can also interfere with draining/spinning.
This maytag washer diagnostic codes list is meant to get you from “mysterious code” to “clear next step” without guesswork. Start with the basics—power reset, water supply, drain path, lid lock alignment—then move to motor/shift errors if the problem persists.
If you want, paste the exact code you’re seeing and tell me whether your washer is top-load or front-load—and I’ll suggest the most likely causes in your specific case using this maytag washer diagnostic codes list as the base.